translator
Anne Schilling
It was published
October 2, 2023
Over 24 intense hours in Paris, the three designers presented their contrasting visions of beauty and female power, ranging from a Valentino immersed in the world of ballet to Akris and a Viennese touch, including Elie Saab and his “very English” style. .
Valentino: Sala Bianca, the triumph of Fine Arts
There was a real sense of triumph over Sunday’s epic show and Valentino’s mega dress collection for the first time since luxury giant Kering bought a 30% stake in the house.
It is a collection whose first half reminds us of the legendary Sala Bianca fashion show organized by Valentino Garavani in Florence in 1962 and immediately elevated the designer to the status of a fashion legend.
The Spring-Summer 2024 collection, spectacularly staged at Beaux Arts de Paris, is supported by the participation of artist and singer FKA Twigs; A troupe of dancers dressed in flesh-coloured leotards leap and twirl on a series of platforms, their bodies covered in water. the sand and mud that is there as it moves.
The collection is structured around a remarkable series of imitation stucco dresses, such as the “Altorilievo” or “High relief”, which appear to be cut from baroque leaves, pineapples, flowers and doves. A breathtaking technique that delights the eyes.
Half-naked but still attractive, the models were clearly enjoying their outfits; always a good sign at a fashion show and surprisingly rare among lesser-known designers.
“I wanted to think about the female body and liberate it,” Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino’s creative director, told FashionNetwork.com during a cocktail party after the show at the Jardin des Beaux-Arts convent. It’s no surprise that he named the collection “School”.
A half-dozen all-black looks featured anatomical cuts, as did six red Valentino outfits that evoked sin, capping a show that had audiences on their feet en masse during the finale. The show benefited from the presence of the likes of Cher, Paris and Nicky Hilton, as well as Piccioli’s former artistic director Sabato De Sarno, who came as a visitor because he is now a designer at Gucci.
Another little tip: There was a bag in almost every outfit, including the new V Logo Moon bag. The model comes in three sizes and they are all very stylish. The larger one is worn on the shoulder for a casual outfit, while the smaller one is wrapped around the wrist and worn as a small evening jewellery.
There’s no sign of Kering’s CEO François-Henri Pinault, but for once Valentino’s president, Rachid Mohamed Rachid, was sitting in the front row next to his family. “I think we have a lot to learn from Kering,” Rachid said with a smile.
Akris: exclusive fashion from Mitteleuropa
Albert Kriemler should be recognized for knowing how to renew sources of inspiration and approach each of his muses with great tact.
Albert Kriemler’s ability to draw on his own culture associated with Mitteleuropa has always made him a unique creator. The situation is the same this season, as he was able to draw on the works of Austrian artist Felice “Lizzie” Rix-Ueno, who studied with architect Josef Hoffmann in Venice before settling in Japan and establishing her own design school there. .
Lizzie’s taste for fantastic animals, beasts, and naive depictions of flowers also appears in Akris’s prints this season, though revisited by Albert Kriemler’s imagination.
Inspiration is a vital resource for all creatives, but few use it as well as Albert. It manages to discover creators who are at the heart of its culture, even if they are little known elsewhere.
The result is often very beautiful models; poppy flower print dresses in artistic fabric, delicious trouser suits covered in poppies and even a very fresh white trapeze dress decorated with Lizzie’s Easter Candy Box motif.
Pajamas and graphic shirt dresses were also very stylish. Kriemler’s latest collection of guipure lace suits and perfectly gathered white shirts had an elegance that can only be admired.
It was a moment mixed with melancholy, supported by a jazz trio playing hits such as “Les Champs-Elysées”, where this show was staged, knowing how to combine fine arts and fashion very well.
To facilitate the discovery of important artists, Albert Kriemler has prepared a first-class program of paintings and photographs finely printed on high-quality paper. Since he knows how to make all his programs, the high quality of the programs makes him want to keep them as memories.
In terms of fashion, Albert is a true architect, master of materials and fabric fanatic of the highest order. This collection reminded us of that in a nice way.
Elie Saab, Anglo-Saxon style
There is plenty of English lace and summer vibes at Elie Saab, which presented its 2024 spring-summer collection on a sweltering autumn day in Paris.
Saturday, the sixth day of the official fashion show season in Paris, had maximum crowds both indoors and outdoors for this parade. A craze that highlights the growing interest in fashion around the world, particularly Elie Saab.
Thousands of fans gathered around the hall of the contemporary art museum at the Palais de Tokyo, begging to be let in. When the parade started, it was packed. Guests were greeted by a giant iridescent moon, evoking moonlit romance and lavish celebrations.
This season, Saab toned down its style and added sportier elements, from belted jumpsuits to polka-dot suits worn with matching bralettes to safari dresses reminiscent of a weekend desert trip.
Elie also introduced major international trends for translucent lace sheath dresses and women’s underwear worn as casual wear. I felt that Elie in particular was shifting his focus more to Britain and America as he expanded his brand internationally, which isn’t a bad thing.
The company has launched a new collaboration with Borsalino x Elie Saab, offering classic Fedora hats adorned with a jeweled monogram on the ribbon band.
But the Lebanese designer will always be a fan of flashy parties and evening nuances. Whether it is magnificent chiffon dresses with wide necklines and adorned with countless pearls, or lemon-coloured linen dresses with magnificent embroidery, worn on cork platforms, like many of the outfits.
The show culminated with the superheroes appearing in sparkling sheath dresses and gorgeously flowing asymmetrical chiffon vestal dresses.
The creator came to greet the audience, flashing a wide smile.
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