Will we see panties under transparent clothes on the streets next summer? While for ordinary mortals doubt is beyond what is allowed, for some creators this goes without saying. The spring-summer 2024 women’s collection, which ended in Paris on October 3, actually emphasized a sensuality that came, incidentally, in secret. Less frontal or aggressive than in previous seasons, which sometimes tended towards bondage and domination, this femininity comes from the flesh revealed by a more or less subtle play of transparencies, volumes or legs.
It was Miu Miu who brought panties back into fashion last season and sent bourgeois women to the catwalks who were extremely stylish, except that they forgot to wear trousers. Miuccia Prada is at it again, swapping her winter rhinestone panties for masculine swimsuits in pop colors (worn in their most natural form, for example, with a ruffled shirt and a long coat). Ruffled skirts are too short to hide the hips, trousers are worn too low-waisted, and polo shirts are cut above the navel. Between the Harrington coat, skintight knit and gold brocade dress, it’s the outrageous pieces full of jewels and contrasts that will continue to ignite Miu Miu excitement and shouldn’t overshadow the rest of the offering.
Stella McCartney’s look was inspired by the look of her parents, Paul and Linda, when they toured with the band Wings, which they formed in 1971, a year after the Beatles broke up. To say the silhouettes are short-dressed would be an understatement. An oversized men’s jacket that reveals black trousers worn with a ruffled shirt that opens the top. This is followed by sparkling bodysuits, low-cut necklines of steamy blouses worn with wide-leg trousers, and even completely transparent tulle dresses. “There is a great sense of freedom in this collection. This is a celebration of our bodies; It’s a way to show that we should enjoy life and live in the moment.”At the end of the presentation of the collection, the designer explains between two kisses to his famous friends who came to greet him (actors Cate Blanchett or Robert Downey Jr.):
Enjoying the feeling of freedom that summer provides is also the leitmotif of Isabel Marant and her artistic director Kim Bekker. “ The Marant girl has always been a girl with legs » they laugh at their collection presented in the gardens of the Palais-Royal. And legs, that’s really a question. Models wearing platform slippers that lengthen the silhouette, leather micro shorts that look more like panties, steamy mini dresses with colorful patterns, white lace blouses that reveal the chest, ultra-tight trousers that reveal the tummy – absolutely straight! – or swimsuits with holes left over from beach style. Skin is everywhere and at the same time sexiness is not loud.
It’s the same mentality that influences Victoria Beckham’s collection. This season, the Englishman looked back to his childhood, when he was passionate about dance. “I found my tutu and tights at my parents’ house, my daughter had so much fun when she saw me dressed like this! », he tells. From training to performance, she opens up the dancer’s entire wardrobe: thick woolen overalls are combined with chunky cardigans, long socks go over soft boots, soft jersey dresses hug the body, long tulle dresses reveal cotton underwear. When finished performing, the dancer wears comfortable men’s pajama-style suits, but they are completely backless. Casual but still sensual.
Extremely slit skirt
This is clearly a matter of sentiment for Mugler, whose Casey Cadwallader collection has been at the helm since 2017. “This season I wanted to do something a little more poetic and simple; This was an interesting challenge for Mugler, a brand known for its boldness and boldness. This collection is more stylish and less aggressive than last season, which featured more leather, for example. But she’s still sexy and feminine!analyzes the designer. I’m still obsessed with the female body, and it’s that strength that I want to celebrate.. »
The power carried by a strong and diverse cast, models with different morphologies but above all 2000s star Paris Hilton and American actress Angela Bassett (65 years old, rare enough to emphasize), in a long flowing black statuesque. The dress flew at the sides thanks to the giant fans placed along the catwalk. A staging that adds a cinematic effect to this wardrobe, which consists of miniskirts that emphasize the hips, short jackets that reveal the stomach, corset dresses that hug the silhouette perfectly, transparent dresses and jumpsuits with hundreds of sequins escaping as if they were molded to the body. .
At Atlein, Antonin Tron, who has used the jersey as his specialty since the beginning of his career in 2016, once again tried his luck in this exercise. “We are receiving more and more requests from celebrities for dresses, red carpet or for various events. This cinematic attraction that glorifies bodies made me want to return to Hollywood. » This results in slim-fit suits in jersey with loose shoulders, lingerie-style dresses, or other dresses in black chiffon that reveal the chest. A cloakroom designed for truly grand evenings.
Sexy also nestles where you least expect it. For example in Y/Project. Glenn Martens, who is also at the forefront of Diesel’s style, makes clothing architecture his own priesthood. She twists and kneads fabrics to create an almost architectural wardrobe of off-cut denim, sheer tulle or printed silk. And through misuse, the clothes emerge: here a belly on a pulled-up polo shirt, there a leg on a highly slit skirt. A sexy guy who doesn’t say his name but still has some influence.
The volume that emerges completely sober is the credo of Sacai, the signature of Chitose Abe, an extraordinary fabric architect. The wardrobe is light but voluminous, with shirts floating around the body as if inflated with air, exposing ribs or back; silk dresses are decorated with short and transparent panels, jackets have hidden slits on the pockets… Sacai proves that you can be elegant even with a shirt that ends above the navel.
In her first presentation at the official Paris week calendar with her brand Quira, LVMH Prize 2023 finalist Veronica Leoni showed a very convincing collection in which cutouts emphasize the structure of the garment, while at the same time bringing sensuality: a cut The scissors on the chest evoke the shape of a bra on a blazer, the waistband of a pair of trousers torn at the back, the eye is irresistibly drawn to a completely transparent pink.
Rokh is equally a work of deft deconstruction, revamping a classic wardrobe inspired by the wealthy students of the Ivy League (a group of eight private universities in the northeastern United States) with playful cutouts and a play on asymmetry. Hey, a jacket that ends above your stomach! And a neckline that goes below the bust! And what an elegant ivory evening dress, if it weren’t for that thin slit between the breasts… There is no doubt that next summer the stores will be full of short-cut dresses with slits, holes. But we’ll probably have to wait a few more years for the panty trend to move beyond the catwalk stage…