One hundred eight houses, sixty-seven fashion shows, forty presentations in nine days in the official calendar: Clothing shortages do not threaten the spring-summer year 2024. Fashion continues its crazy course. It is no longer enough to create silhouettes, we must also win the battle of algorithms and attract attention on social networks. There’s now a record to be broken for brands: Louis Vuitton’s artistic director of men’s collections, Pharrell Williams’ event show, surpassed 500 million views in just three days in June; This is a first.
While everyone is trying to create excitement, access to fashion shows is becoming increasingly difficult. Fans flock to see their idols, chanting names that most people don’t know and making guests feel like they’ve fallen into a lion’s den. This season, Givenchy placed the “Fanzone” sign at the entrance of its fashion show as if it were a rugby match, in an attempt to gather enthusiastic crowds who came to see American rapper and Chinese singer Xu Minghao (The8). Tyga and Cher. Rarely are so many bodyguards in attendance at fashion shows, like the four giants who surrounded Kylie Jenner and Rosalía during the Acne Studios show, one of whom sat in the front row and was still enjoying the show.
What about the clothes in all of this? Simpler, more classic, quiet luxury (“hidden luxury”). Six months after its appearance, the phrase is seen online in such abundance that it borders on indigestion. This era of the “portable,” even the “commercial,” pleases some and irritates others. The problem is clear: you need to sell. Fashion’s excesses appear to have cooled, with the primary concerns of luxury houses concerned about China’s economic health. Regardless, this Paris fashion week had its share of exciting surprises, like Rick Owens’ parade under a shower of confetti, Louise Trotter’s debut collection at Carven, Miu Miu’s creative vibrancy or Balenciaga’s incredible “punch” parade . Paris has successfully maintained its position as the fashion capital of the world.
Monday, September 25
The meeting took place at 16:00 at the Maison des Métallos in the 11th arrondissement, the former trade union center that has become the cultural space of the Paris City Hall. The sun shines through the glass roof of the upper floor, the sky is cloudless. 27-year-old Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt opens the show this season, following a remarkable debut show in March. As emerging designers find it increasingly difficult to emerge, some, like Ester Manas, who is not on the calendar, have decided to skip a season. However, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt was able to count on the support of the Belgian fashion family, especially Etienne Russo, founder of the fashion show production company Villa Eugénie, and Tony Delcampe, atelier manager of La Cambre Mode(s).
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