Paris – If sobriety is the motto of Paris Fashion Week, a few attitudes and details are spoiling this celebration of good manners that ends Tuesday:
Jacket
A well-cut suit in classic colors (beige, grey, navy blue or black), usually worn with skirts, trousers or Bermuda shorts, symbolizes a new elegance.
Long and very straight in a masculine style at Dior, oversized double-breasted or long in operatic duchess satin at Givenchy.
Victor Weinsanto puts a hood on his jacket, while Dries Van Noten makes his jacket from denim with reduced or exaggerated volume. Peter Do plays with proportions with his short or two-tone coat.
Black with large gold buttons has a retro feel at Balmain and evokes the “beautiful Madame” of the 1940s.
While Balenciaga becomes obsessed with tailoring a suit jacket for his show, he warns: “What’s important is not the jacket you wear, but the life you lead wearing it.”
Even the Japanese brand Issey Miyake is motivated by the desire to embody the wind in a garment: a voluminous suit made of light and flexible fabric in black, pink or electric blue, with trousers with large triangular shoulders.
Flowers
Printed, embroidered, sculptural flowers: Balmain wowed with its colorful and exuberant collection, which the team managed to piece together ten days after an unprecedented theft of 50 pieces designed for the show.
At Givenchy, flowers appear more discreetly in embroidery, hand-painted patterns, prints and even jewellery.
Dior’s characteristic mille-fleurs pattern transforms into a contrasting floral x-ray of white and black.
At Balenciaga, long floral dresses contrast with black suits.
Shameless
Down with skirts and trousers, we walk around in panties! Miu Miu recommends it in winter, celebs like Hailey Bieber or Kendall Jenner try it in real life, and Paris catwalks make it their own.
Playing with transparency, the black dress is a signature Dior look.
The teaser photo of Chanel, which will present its collection on the last day of Fashion Week on Tuesday, shows model Rianne Van Rompaey in a one-piece swimsuit in the garden of Villa Noailles, a masterpiece of modernist architecture in Hyères. South of France.
Victoria Beckham’s classic dancers rock bodysuits under a slightly longer cardigan. At Dries Van Noten, swimsuit-like outfits are hidden under long coats.
According to Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, this is a reflection: “A pareo that integrates with a swimsuit, or a swimsuit that turns into a garment?”
sock heels
First a fashion mistake, now a style element: sandals or heels are worn over socks.
At Givenchy, toned or colorful knee-high socks over heels are worn with formal suits and evening dresses.
Victoria Beckham combines heels with dancer tights.
“I like this look + I don’t care +,” she told AFP Dries Van Noten, whose exaggerated dotted and curved heels were worn with socks. “Now is not the time to be sad and serious.”
Humor
The parades do indeed exude a heavy dose of irony and self-deprecation.
Rick Owens arranged his monster ball around the Tokyo Palace fountain, with neon pink and yellow smoke on one side and rose petals on the other. The models, whose zombie-like faces were covered by a sort of beekeeper mask and their shoulders pulled up, moved to the tune of “I still believe in love.”
Balenciaga stylist Demna, who has kept a low profile following controversy over an ad that sexualized children, has rediscovered his sense of spectacle and humor by teasing the promise of focusing on clothing. On a square red catwalk lined with matching velvet curtains, intrusive explanations of the jacket-making process accompanied by dramatic music served as the show’s backdrop.
“Let’s go to the beach!” Marie Adam-Leenaerdt’s show opened with a grey, formal and structured look adorned with large bags, following a rumored invitation to go to the beach.(AFP)
