What could be better than a dilapidated building where everything needs to be renewed, telling you that a new beginning is offered to you? British designer Louise Trotter began rebuilding the Carven house, with its diminutive but still prestigious name, in an abandoned office building on Avenue Marceau in Paris on Saturday (September 30). At least that’s what the ICCF group wants to believe.
The Chinese group, which already owns Icicle, bought Carven, which was subject to a preservation procedure, in 2018 and appointed Trotter as artistic director. “My hands are free”Arriving in March, it reassures Gap, Joseph and Lacoste that they are turning to them to offer a sophisticated take on their aging legacies. “I have to think about the whole identity of the house: the store, the logo, the clothes…”
Founded on May 24, 1945, with the opening of a boutique at number 6 from the Champs-Elysées junction, Carven is a diversion of founder Carmen de Tommaso’s first name, named after Bizet’s heroine, by her opera-enthusiastic father. When you see someone’s name there “bad girl”, chose to change one letter. Carven first had a good time in haute couture. However, the 1970s marked the beginning of ups and downs, fueled by successive acquisitions by various groups: Rosthschild, Worth Fine Fragrances, SCM, Béranger… Carven’s latest excitement in the small fashion world dates back to the early 2010s. designer Guillaume Henry knew how to make his ready-to-wear shine. Will Trotter also find an adequate formula?
Wide-shouldered blazers and sexy skirts
“The house has several archivesremembers Louise Trotter. Mrs. Carven bequeathed many of these to the Palais Galliera, or Louvre. She had the intelligence to share this with others. » So, from the Carven dictionary, he reinterpreted the green and white striped pattern on a shirt or leather bag, “Ma griffe”, a cotton dress from the 1949 spring-summer collection revered by Carmen de Tommaso, or repeated the marking frenzy. waist. This results in double-breasted coats or shirt dresses in sand or metal gray held in place with thin belts. Wide-shouldered wool blazers and sleek satin skirts, spaghetti strap dresses and slipper-friendly overalls, baby blue or lemon yellow bags that you can carry around, white t-shirts that are big and fluffy like duvets, and matching jewelry…
Pure and controlled, a subject of sophistication without both false notes and a touch of madness, is here and there embodied by familiar models who are the faces of minimalist fashion in the 2010s and are willing to reconcile bourgeois wardrobe and feminist liberation. Like Maggie Maurer or Saskia de Brauw. “The parallel I draw with Miss Carven is the idea of a woman who designs clothes to give confidence to other women.”says Louise Trotter, who wants the paw to manage to exhale “a mood”that of a liberated heroine (this first collection manages to suggest this) and joyful (this needs to be developed). Determined and focused, the designer refuses to allow herself to succumb to the weight of an overly defined narrative or too precise aesthetic. ” Past is pastit sweeps away. What I’m looking for now is a woman who can move forward. »