There’s nothing more exciting than immersing yourself in 360-degree creativity at Paris Fashion Week. All brands are in the same boat; each has a place in the official calendar or “closed” calendar and has its own fifteen minutes of visibility. So we can move from the presentation of a legendary house like Lanvin to the fashion show of the designer brand Gauchere, and then discover an interesting new name like Vautrait, shown by Israeli designer Yonathan Carmel during a meeting. On the sidelines of Official Week for the first time in Paris.
Gauchere, which has been on the Paris catwalks since March 2020, continues on its way with increasingly contemporary collections, away from the couture meticulousness that characterized its beginning. For this spring-summer 2024 collection, German founder and designer Marie-Christine Statz aims to capture the present moment more than ever with androgynous, edgy and urban silhouettes.
The style remains minimalist but is amped up with a more youthful look with second-skin knits layered over casual trousers, such as ultra-short shorts or tank tops and loose fleece joggers. “I have always tried to translate the fragmentation that characterizes our time, where we are hyperconnected and everything goes too fast. This feeling is conveyed through overlaps, contrasting materials and, above all, a liberating body. The costume deconstructs and becomes more organic.” , explains the stylist backstage.
The designs are quite simple; Playing on contrasts and unexpected materials. Between the volumes and a tighter fit, everything is perfectly calibrated. tailoring and a sportier vein. Thus, a transparent muslin dress is worn under an opaque leather jacket with a zipper. Many leather pieces are also available in black or color. From pool slides replacing sandals to trench coats and trousers, including leather tops and flowy dresses.
The range of accessories is enriched with bags and shoes. We’re particularly looking forward to the sleek heels introduced last year, which are built like ballet dancers and give them the appearance of leather shoe covers. This season, Gauchere is also introducing its first eyewear models produced with French-Californian eyewear manufacturer Ahlem.
Lanvin is returning to its roots for spring-summer 2024, focusing on ultra-high-end ready-to-wear with a multitude of high-end, handcrafted evening pieces. The house of the Chinese group Lanvin Group (formerly Fosun), which has been without its creative director Bruno Sialelli since last April, is waiting to announce the name of its next artistic director, currently its creative director, while entrusting the creation of this new collection to his studio. has been selected and will be announced by the end of the year.
The wardrobe consists of 25 looks, only ten of which were presented to the press on Thursday at the brand’s headquarters in Paris, a beautiful mansion overlooking Parc Monceau. Most were cocktail or evening dresses paired with long, sleek gloves in black or blue Lanvin leather. Made of tulle and delicate silk, they are decorated with metallic micro-patterns or crystals and rhinestones, or even mini white pearls.
Mesh or wide-knit tunics can be enhanced with lace or tiny jewels, while men can appear in a tuxedo illuminated with silver fringed embroidery. Everything reflects a Deco style that Jeanne Lanvin loved so much. Some styles are simpler, like this wide-sleeved trench coat.
Among the big names making their debuts this Paris Fashion Week, Vautrait stood out with a successful collection with sought-after structures. Young Israeli designer Yonathan Carmel, who first exhibited in Paris, likes to reshape and reconstruct the garment with unexpected details, like this sleeve that suddenly separates from the trench coat and falls to the front, creating space on one shoulder. or this cardigan and this white shirt that wraps in a spiral around the chest, hugging it.
“I’m obsessed with tailoring, but in general it applies mainly to men’s clothing. “My idea is to use these techniques to make it more fluid,” says the designer, who prefers volumes. large sizefaux simplicity, muted tones and natural materials like linen used to create a generously proportioned masculine suit or sheer, impalpable silk transformed into an elegant evening gown.
After three years of military service and a year of philosophy studies, Yonathan Carmel (27 years old), passionate about photography, decided to step into fashion. He attended fashion schools in London and Tel Aviv while learning the trade at work. In 2021, he founded the house Vautrait, named after one of his Tunisian French ancestors. It has been distributed in the Boon showroom for a year. In two seasons it has won over five multi-brand boutiques in Japan, China, Dubai, Ukraine as well as France, where it is sold at the Grande Boutique in Aix-en-Provence.
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